It's fun to make a dramatic spectacle by making and serving Café Brulôt at the end of a magnificent Creole meal, with special Brulôt bowls, ladles and cups. If you don't have all the fancy gear, don't despair ... a chafing dish, bent-handled ladle (to keep you from burning all the hair off your arms) and demitasse cups work wonderfully. I learned to make this from Joe Cahn, at the New Orleans School of Cooking, who emphasizes the flourish when making this.
* 8 ounces good brandy
* 4 ounces Grand Marnier, Cointreau, good triple sec or any orange-flavored liqueur
* 8 teaspoons dark brown sugar
* 16 curls orange peel *
* 16 curls lemon peel *
* 10 whole cloves
* thin slice of butter
* ground cinnamon
* 4 cups strong New Orleans coffee & chicory (Union, Community, French Market, et al.)
[* -- This, and only this, may be prepared ahead of time in the kitchen. The best way to remove the orange and lemon peel is with a potato peeler; then julienne the pieces of peel. Alternately, and more dramatically, peel the orange and the lemon very carefully, so that you get one long continuous spiral of peel from each.]
Bring your ingredients out into the living room, dining room or wherever your guests are eating. Into a wide mouthed chafing dish over sterno, dramatically free pour brandy and Grand Marnier. Add the sugar, orange and lemon peels, whole cloves and butter while telling the appropriate good stories.
When the butter begins to melt and the mixture begins to simmer, light by filling a bent-handled ladle with the mixture, ignite the mixture in the ladle, holding directly over the flame, and then pouring the lighted mixture into the rest of the Brulôt. (If you're brave, you can hold the ladle a few feet above the pot and pour in a flaming stream, and if you're really brave, if you've cut long continuous strips of peel, let one of them dangle from the ladle and pour the flaming stream along the peel ... it looks great! Have someone standing by with a fire extinguisher in case you screw up.)
After having sung a few voodoo chants and/or appropriate flowery patter, sprinkle some "magic voodoo dust" (okay, cinnamon) into the flames with a flourish. They'll sparkle, all orange and pretty, within the blue alcohol flame. Add coffee to extinguish and serve. Use a Brulôt ladle if you have one; it'll strain out the cloves and peel; otherwise, pour through a strainer. Serve in Brulôt or demitasse cups.
Saturday, March 28, 2009
Chuck Taggart's Creole Red Jambalaya
this is from a new orleanian's blog. i added okra and used parboiled brown rice and invited friends.
There are a wide variety of ways to make jambalaya, with chicken and sausage, or shrimp, or ham, or even duck or alligator. Some involve tomatoes and tomato sauce, some use chicken or beef stock instead. This first one uses both tomatoes and chicken stock, and is a New Orleans Creole-style "red" jambalshri
One of my favorite variations is the one in which I omit the rice basis of the dish (gasp, blasphemy!) and substitute pasta. Turns out that my Pasta Jambalaya is very popular among my family, friends and readers. It's a bit of a Creole-Italilan spin on the dish ... give it a try sometime!
By the way, it's pronounced or .
* 1 lb. boneless chicken, cubed; AND/OR
o 1 lb. shrimp, boiled in Zatarain's and peeled; OR
o 1 lb. leftover holiday turkey, cubed; OR
o 1 lb. of any kind of poultry or fish, cubed; OR
o Any combination of the above
* 1 lb. (hot) smoked sausage, andouille or chaurice, sliced on the bias; OR
o 1 lb. diced smoked ham
* 1 large onion, chopped
* 1 bell pepper, chopped
* 3 - 6 cloves garlic, minced (amount to taste; I like lots)
* 4 ribs celery, chopped
* 3 small cans tomato paste
* 4 large Creole tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced; OR
o 1 28-oz. can tomatoes
* 8 cups good dark homemade chicken stock
* Creole seasoning blend to taste (or 2 - 3 tablespoons); OR
o 2 teaspoons cayenne, 2 teaspoons black pepper, 1 teaspoon white pepper, 1 teaspoon oregano, 1/2 teapsoon thyme
* 2 bay leaves
* Salt to taste
* 4 cups long-grain white rice, uncooked (Some people like converted rice, others prefer good old Mahatma. I use Uncle Ben's converted, as the rice doesn't get sticky or lumpy that way.)
In a sauté or frying pan, brown the chicken, sprinkling with Tony Chachere's seasoning if you've got it; a bit of salt, black pepper and red pepper otherwise. Don't brown if using leftover cooked bird, but you still might want to season the meat. Tear or cut the meat into bite-size pieces.
Brown the sliced smoked sausage or andouille and pour off fat. In the pot, sauté the onions, garlic, peppers and celery in oil until onions begin to turn transparent.
In the same pot, while you're sautéing the "trinity", add the tomato paste and let it pincé, meaning to let it brown a little. What we're going for here is an additional depth of flavor by browning the tomato paste a little; the sugar in the tomato paste begins to caramelize, deepening the flavor and color. Keep it moving so that it browns but doesn't burn. Some friends of mine hate this step, so you can skip it if you want, but then it won't be Chuck's jambalaya. :^)
Once the vegetables are translucent and the tomato paste achives sort of a red mahogany color, deglaze the pan with the about 2 cups of the stock, scraping the bottom of the pan to mix up any browned bits, and stir until smooth, making sure the sautéed vegetables, paste and stock are combined thoroughly. It should be fairly thick.
Add the Creole seasoning, tomatoes and salt to taste. Cook over low-medium heat for about 10 minutes. Add the meat and/or seafood and cook another 10 minutes; if you're using seafood, be careful not to overcook it.
Add the rest of the stock, check seasonings, and stir in the rice, combining thoroughly. Cook for about 20-25 minutes, or until the rice has absorbed all the liquid and is cooked through. If you haven't checked your seasonings before adding the rice, it's too late! It's much better for the rice to absorb the seasonings while it's cooking. Check seasoning anyway, then turn the heat down to low-medium and let the sauce thicken up a bit, with the pot uncovered, stirring frequently, for about 10 minutes. Stir thoroughly to combine all ingredients. When the jambalaya has thickened up a bit and has reached the "right" consistency (you'll know), it's done.
Serve with salad and French bread.
There are a wide variety of ways to make jambalaya, with chicken and sausage, or shrimp, or ham, or even duck or alligator. Some involve tomatoes and tomato sauce, some use chicken or beef stock instead. This first one uses both tomatoes and chicken stock, and is a New Orleans Creole-style "red" jambalshri
One of my favorite variations is the one in which I omit the rice basis of the dish (gasp, blasphemy!) and substitute pasta. Turns out that my Pasta Jambalaya is very popular among my family, friends and readers. It's a bit of a Creole-Italilan spin on the dish ... give it a try sometime!
By the way, it's pronounced
* 1 lb. boneless chicken, cubed; AND/OR
o 1 lb. shrimp, boiled in Zatarain's and peeled; OR
o 1 lb. leftover holiday turkey, cubed; OR
o 1 lb. of any kind of poultry or fish, cubed; OR
o Any combination of the above
* 1 lb. (hot) smoked sausage, andouille or chaurice, sliced on the bias; OR
o 1 lb. diced smoked ham
* 1 large onion, chopped
* 1 bell pepper, chopped
* 3 - 6 cloves garlic, minced (amount to taste; I like lots)
* 4 ribs celery, chopped
* 3 small cans tomato paste
* 4 large Creole tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced; OR
o 1 28-oz. can tomatoes
* 8 cups good dark homemade chicken stock
* Creole seasoning blend to taste (or 2 - 3 tablespoons); OR
o 2 teaspoons cayenne, 2 teaspoons black pepper, 1 teaspoon white pepper, 1 teaspoon oregano, 1/2 teapsoon thyme
* 2 bay leaves
* Salt to taste
* 4 cups long-grain white rice, uncooked (Some people like converted rice, others prefer good old Mahatma. I use Uncle Ben's converted, as the rice doesn't get sticky or lumpy that way.)
In a sauté or frying pan, brown the chicken, sprinkling with Tony Chachere's seasoning if you've got it; a bit of salt, black pepper and red pepper otherwise. Don't brown if using leftover cooked bird, but you still might want to season the meat. Tear or cut the meat into bite-size pieces.
Brown the sliced smoked sausage or andouille and pour off fat. In the pot, sauté the onions, garlic, peppers and celery in oil until onions begin to turn transparent.
In the same pot, while you're sautéing the "trinity", add the tomato paste and let it pincé, meaning to let it brown a little. What we're going for here is an additional depth of flavor by browning the tomato paste a little; the sugar in the tomato paste begins to caramelize, deepening the flavor and color. Keep it moving so that it browns but doesn't burn. Some friends of mine hate this step, so you can skip it if you want, but then it won't be Chuck's jambalaya. :^)
Once the vegetables are translucent and the tomato paste achives sort of a red mahogany color, deglaze the pan with the about 2 cups of the stock, scraping the bottom of the pan to mix up any browned bits, and stir until smooth, making sure the sautéed vegetables, paste and stock are combined thoroughly. It should be fairly thick.
Add the Creole seasoning, tomatoes and salt to taste. Cook over low-medium heat for about 10 minutes. Add the meat and/or seafood and cook another 10 minutes; if you're using seafood, be careful not to overcook it.
Add the rest of the stock, check seasonings, and stir in the rice, combining thoroughly. Cook for about 20-25 minutes, or until the rice has absorbed all the liquid and is cooked through. If you haven't checked your seasonings before adding the rice, it's too late! It's much better for the rice to absorb the seasonings while it's cooking. Check seasoning anyway, then turn the heat down to low-medium and let the sauce thicken up a bit, with the pot uncovered, stirring frequently, for about 10 minutes. Stir thoroughly to combine all ingredients. When the jambalaya has thickened up a bit and has reached the "right" consistency (you'll know), it's done.
Serve with salad and French bread.
St. Charles
i've made a pot of jabalaya and dv is getting the gin for this:
This is a more elegant gin and tonic, so I named it after one of the most elegant avenues in the city of New Orleans. Remember, though -- you can make this with cheap gin, and you can substitute Angostura bitters for the Peychaud's ... but what would be the point? That would be just another common gin and tonic.
* The juice of one lime, freshly squeezed (if you use some bottled swill like RealLime, I'll come into your dreams at night and taunt you mercilessly)
* The peel from the above lime, removed with a vegetable peeler.
* 2 ounces gin (don't use cheap gin)
* 5 ounces Fever Tree tonic water (my preferred brand)
* 4 healthy dashes Peychaud's bitters
* Lime wedge
Place the lime peel in a highball glass and add the gin. Muddle the lime peel gently, to help press out some of the lime oil. If you're patient, let it sit in there for a few minutes. Then fill the glass almost to the top with cracked ice cubes. Add the lime juice. Fill with the tonic water, then add the bitters (don't be shy). Rub the lime wedge around the rim of the glass, then add it as a garnish. Swizzle, then serve the drink with the swizzle stick. Accept the compliments graciously.
This is a more elegant gin and tonic, so I named it after one of the most elegant avenues in the city of New Orleans. Remember, though -- you can make this with cheap gin, and you can substitute Angostura bitters for the Peychaud's ... but what would be the point? That would be just another common gin and tonic.
* The juice of one lime, freshly squeezed (if you use some bottled swill like RealLime, I'll come into your dreams at night and taunt you mercilessly)
* The peel from the above lime, removed with a vegetable peeler.
* 2 ounces gin (don't use cheap gin)
* 5 ounces Fever Tree tonic water (my preferred brand)
* 4 healthy dashes Peychaud's bitters
* Lime wedge
Place the lime peel in a highball glass and add the gin. Muddle the lime peel gently, to help press out some of the lime oil. If you're patient, let it sit in there for a few minutes. Then fill the glass almost to the top with cracked ice cubes. Add the lime juice. Fill with the tonic water, then add the bitters (don't be shy). Rub the lime wedge around the rim of the glass, then add it as a garnish. Swizzle, then serve the drink with the swizzle stick. Accept the compliments graciously.
Sunday, March 22, 2009
Peaches Sabayon (zabilione)
i made this yesterday with peaches that were in the freezer. it was good and would have been even better, i suspect, if i'd used four egg yolks instead of one whole egg. really good healthy way to have peaches. oh, and i diddn't have peach brandy or white wine (! can you believe THAT?) so i used vermouth and peach schnapps. drained the liquid from the thawed peaches, reduced it a little, added the other ingredients except the egg, incorporated a little of the warm liquid into the egg and then added the egg into the liquid, stirring. didn't use a double boiler and it thickened in 10 minutes after stirring continuously. the whites tried to curdle so i probably didn't temper it enough, but it was a good midday snack or dessert. Oh, and i sprinkled toasted almond slices on top.
* 3 medium peaches (1 lb total), halved, pitted, and each half cut into 6 wedges
* 2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar
* 1/4 cup sugar
* 4 large egg yolks
* 1/3 cup dry white wine
* 3 tablespoons peach brandy
Gently toss peaches with vinegar and 1 tablespoon sugar, then let macerate 30 minutes.
When peaches have macerated 15 minutes, combine yolks, wine, brandy, and remaining 3 tablespoons sugar in a large metal bowl set over a saucepan of barely simmering water and beat with a handheld electric mixer at medium-high speed until sabayon registers 140°F on thermometer, about 7 minutes. Continue beating over simmering water until sabayon has tripled in volume and forms a thick ribbon when beaters are lifted, about 4 minutes more. Remove bowl from saucepan.
Divide peaches and their juice among 4 bowls and top with sabayon.
* 3 medium peaches (1 lb total), halved, pitted, and each half cut into 6 wedges
* 2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar
* 1/4 cup sugar
* 4 large egg yolks
* 1/3 cup dry white wine
* 3 tablespoons peach brandy
Gently toss peaches with vinegar and 1 tablespoon sugar, then let macerate 30 minutes.
When peaches have macerated 15 minutes, combine yolks, wine, brandy, and remaining 3 tablespoons sugar in a large metal bowl set over a saucepan of barely simmering water and beat with a handheld electric mixer at medium-high speed until sabayon registers 140°F on thermometer, about 7 minutes. Continue beating over simmering water until sabayon has tripled in volume and forms a thick ribbon when beaters are lifted, about 4 minutes more. Remove bowl from saucepan.
Divide peaches and their juice among 4 bowls and top with sabayon.
Saturday, March 21, 2009
Noodles with Soy Broth
Salt
1/3 cup soy sauce, more to taste
1/3 cup ketchup or 3 tablespoons tomato paste and a pinch of sugar
1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar, more to taste
A few drops dark sesame oil (optional)
A squirt of sriracha or other sauce, or a dried red chili to taste (optional)
1 pound egg noodles, preferably fresh.
1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. In a smaller pot, bring 6 cups of water to a boil; once boiling, reduce heat so water bubbles gently.
2. To the smaller pot add soy sauce, ketchup, vinegar, sesame oil if using and sriracha or chili, along with a pinch of salt. Stir and let simmer.
3. Add egg noodles to large pot; fresh noodles will be ready in just a couple of minutes; dried will take longer. When tender but not mushy, drain. Taste broth and add more soy, salt, vinegar or heat as you like. Divide noodles into bowls and pour hot broth over all.
Add meat, shrimp, tofu, garlic, vegetables, ginger...
Yield: 4 servings.
1/3 cup soy sauce, more to taste
1/3 cup ketchup or 3 tablespoons tomato paste and a pinch of sugar
1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar, more to taste
A few drops dark sesame oil (optional)
A squirt of sriracha or other sauce, or a dried red chili to taste (optional)
1 pound egg noodles, preferably fresh.
1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. In a smaller pot, bring 6 cups of water to a boil; once boiling, reduce heat so water bubbles gently.
2. To the smaller pot add soy sauce, ketchup, vinegar, sesame oil if using and sriracha or chili, along with a pinch of salt. Stir and let simmer.
3. Add egg noodles to large pot; fresh noodles will be ready in just a couple of minutes; dried will take longer. When tender but not mushy, drain. Taste broth and add more soy, salt, vinegar or heat as you like. Divide noodles into bowls and pour hot broth over all.
Add meat, shrimp, tofu, garlic, vegetables, ginger...
Yield: 4 servings.
/feta and dill tart with lemony spinach salad
Ingredients:
2 large eggs
1/3 cup crème fraIche or heavy cream
2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill, plus 1/2 cup loosely packed dill sprigs for the salad (optional)
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more for the salad
Freshly ground pepper
1 sheet [about 9 ounces) frozen puff pastry, thawed
1 cup [about 4 ounces) crumbled good-quality feta
4 small handfuls baby spinach or Baby arugula leaves, washed and dried well
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice, plus more to taste
This and many other wonderful recipes may be found in Martha Holmberg's
Puff
from Chronicle Books
I like piling the spinach salad right on top of this tart, because the cool, slightly bitter leaves contrast beautifully with the tangy, salty tart below. But for a cocktail snack, skip the salad and simply cut the tart into smaller pieces. This is not a particularly good reheater, so make it close to serving time.
1. Heat the oven to 425°F. In a medium bowl, whisk the eggs, crème fraiche, chopped dill, lemon zest, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and about 10 grinds of pepper.
2. On a lightly floured counter, roll the pastry into an 11-by-13-inch rectangle. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat (in case there are any leaks), and lay the pastry on the sheet. Wet the edges with water and fold over a 3/4-inch border. Distribute the feta evenly within the border, and then carefully pour the egg mixture over the cheese, taking care that it doesn't slosh onto the border. Carefully transfer the baking sheet to the oven and bake until the pastry is puffed and brown on the border and the underside, and the filling is golden brown, 18 to 20 minutes.
3. Slide the tart off the pan and onto a rack to cool a bit. Transfer to a cutting board and cut into four rectangles, so that each piece gets some border. Put the tart onto plates.
4. In a large bowl, toss the spinach and dill sprigs [if using) with the olive oil and lemon juice until evenly coated. Sprinkle with salt, pepper, and more lemon juice to taste. Arrange a handful of salad on each piece of tart and serve immediately.
Serves 8 as an appetizer or 2 to 3 as a light main course
2 large eggs
1/3 cup crème fraIche or heavy cream
2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill, plus 1/2 cup loosely packed dill sprigs for the salad (optional)
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more for the salad
Freshly ground pepper
1 sheet [about 9 ounces) frozen puff pastry, thawed
1 cup [about 4 ounces) crumbled good-quality feta
4 small handfuls baby spinach or Baby arugula leaves, washed and dried well
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice, plus more to taste
This and many other wonderful recipes may be found in Martha Holmberg's
Puff
from Chronicle Books
I like piling the spinach salad right on top of this tart, because the cool, slightly bitter leaves contrast beautifully with the tangy, salty tart below. But for a cocktail snack, skip the salad and simply cut the tart into smaller pieces. This is not a particularly good reheater, so make it close to serving time.
1. Heat the oven to 425°F. In a medium bowl, whisk the eggs, crème fraiche, chopped dill, lemon zest, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and about 10 grinds of pepper.
2. On a lightly floured counter, roll the pastry into an 11-by-13-inch rectangle. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat (in case there are any leaks), and lay the pastry on the sheet. Wet the edges with water and fold over a 3/4-inch border. Distribute the feta evenly within the border, and then carefully pour the egg mixture over the cheese, taking care that it doesn't slosh onto the border. Carefully transfer the baking sheet to the oven and bake until the pastry is puffed and brown on the border and the underside, and the filling is golden brown, 18 to 20 minutes.
3. Slide the tart off the pan and onto a rack to cool a bit. Transfer to a cutting board and cut into four rectangles, so that each piece gets some border. Put the tart onto plates.
4. In a large bowl, toss the spinach and dill sprigs [if using) with the olive oil and lemon juice until evenly coated. Sprinkle with salt, pepper, and more lemon juice to taste. Arrange a handful of salad on each piece of tart and serve immediately.
Serves 8 as an appetizer or 2 to 3 as a light main course
Thursday, March 19, 2009
Provencal Greens Soup
In France this simple, nutritious soup is made with wild greens that you might forage on an afternoon’s walk, such as nettles, watercress and dandelion greens. If you must use one green, I recommend Swiss chard.
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 leeks, cut in half length-wise, sliced, rinsed of dirt and drained on paper towels
4 garlic cloves, sliced
6 cups chopped greens (leaves only), such as Swiss chard, dandelion greens, watercress and beet greens
1 1/2 quarts water
Salt, preferably kosher salt, to taste
Freshly ground pepper to taste
2 large eggs
4 thick slices country bread, toasted and rubbed with a cut clove of garlic
Grated Parmesan for serving (optional)
1. Heat one tablespoon of the olive oil in a large, heavy soup pot over medium heat, and add the leeks. Cook, stirring, until tender, three to five minutes. Add the garlic and 1/2 teaspoon salt, and cook, stirring, until the garlic is fragrant, about one minute. Add the greens, and stir until they begin to wilt. Add the water and salt to taste, and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat and simmer, partially covered, for 15 to 20 minutes, until the greens are very tender and the broth sweet. Add pepper, and taste and adjust seasoning.
2. Beat the eggs in a bowl. Making sure that the soup is not boiling, whisk a ladle of it into the beaten eggs. Take the soup off the heat, and stir in the tempered eggs. Brush the garlic croutons with olive oil, and place one or two in each bowl. Ladle in the soup, sprinkle on some Parmesan if desired and serve.
Yield: Serves four
Advance preparation: You can make the soup through step 1 several hours before serving.
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 leeks, cut in half length-wise, sliced, rinsed of dirt and drained on paper towels
4 garlic cloves, sliced
6 cups chopped greens (leaves only), such as Swiss chard, dandelion greens, watercress and beet greens
1 1/2 quarts water
Salt, preferably kosher salt, to taste
Freshly ground pepper to taste
2 large eggs
4 thick slices country bread, toasted and rubbed with a cut clove of garlic
Grated Parmesan for serving (optional)
1. Heat one tablespoon of the olive oil in a large, heavy soup pot over medium heat, and add the leeks. Cook, stirring, until tender, three to five minutes. Add the garlic and 1/2 teaspoon salt, and cook, stirring, until the garlic is fragrant, about one minute. Add the greens, and stir until they begin to wilt. Add the water and salt to taste, and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat and simmer, partially covered, for 15 to 20 minutes, until the greens are very tender and the broth sweet. Add pepper, and taste and adjust seasoning.
2. Beat the eggs in a bowl. Making sure that the soup is not boiling, whisk a ladle of it into the beaten eggs. Take the soup off the heat, and stir in the tempered eggs. Brush the garlic croutons with olive oil, and place one or two in each bowl. Ladle in the soup, sprinkle on some Parmesan if desired and serve.
Yield: Serves four
Advance preparation: You can make the soup through step 1 several hours before serving.
Sunday, March 15, 2009
Creamed broccoli
* 1 bunch broccoli (1 1/4 pounds)
* 1 cup heavy cream
* 2 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled
* 1/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg
* 3 tablespoons grated parmesan
* 1/2 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
Preparation
Peel broccoli stems, then coarsely chop stems and florets. Cook broccoli in boiling salted water (1 1/2 teaspoons salt for 4 quarts water) until just tender, 4 to 6 minutes. Drain in a colander and run under cold water to stop cooking.
Simmer cream, garlic, nutmeg, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/8 teaspoon pepper in a medium saucepan, uncovered, until slightly thickened and reduced to about 2/3 cup, about 5 minutes.
Add broccoli and simmer, mashing with a potato masher, until coarsely mashed and heated through, about 2 minutes.
Remove from heat and stir in parmesan and lemon juice.
Cooks' note: Broccoli can be boiled 1 day ahead and chilled.
* 1 cup heavy cream
* 2 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled
* 1/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg
* 3 tablespoons grated parmesan
* 1/2 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
Preparation
Peel broccoli stems, then coarsely chop stems and florets. Cook broccoli in boiling salted water (1 1/2 teaspoons salt for 4 quarts water) until just tender, 4 to 6 minutes. Drain in a colander and run under cold water to stop cooking.
Simmer cream, garlic, nutmeg, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/8 teaspoon pepper in a medium saucepan, uncovered, until slightly thickened and reduced to about 2/3 cup, about 5 minutes.
Add broccoli and simmer, mashing with a potato masher, until coarsely mashed and heated through, about 2 minutes.
Remove from heat and stir in parmesan and lemon juice.
Cooks' note: Broccoli can be boiled 1 day ahead and chilled.
Sunday, March 08, 2009
Moroccan Lemon Chicken
Found this on epicureous, from a Gourmet 1997 article. I've just prepared it and it took about twenty minutes. It smells divine and I'll bet it will taste great.
* 1 tablespoon olive oil
* 1 whole boneless chicken breast with skin and wings attached (about 1 1/2 pounds; available by request from butcher), halved
* 1 small onion, sliced thin
* 3/4 teaspoon ground cumin
* 1/4 teaspoon paprika
* 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
* 2 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest
* 1 1/2 teaspoons all-purpose flour
* 1 1/2 cups chicken broth
* 1/3 cup green olives, pitted and sliced thin
* 1 tablespoon honey
* 1/2 cup drained and rinsed canned chick peas
* 2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander sprigs (wash and dry before chopping)
* Accompaniment:Rice with Almonds and Raisins
Preparation
In a 3-quart heavy saucepan heat oil over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking. Pat chicken dry and season with salt and pepper. Cook chicken, skin side down, until skin is deep golden brown. Transfer chicken to a plate and reduce heat to moderate. Add onion to pan and cook, stirring, until softened. Add cumin, paprika, cinnamon, zest, and flour and cook, stirring, 1 minute. Stir in broth, olives and honey.
Return chicken to pan and simmer, uncovered, 8 minutes. Transfer chicken to 2 plates. Add chick peas to sauce. Simmer sauce 3 minutes and season with salt and pepper. Pour sauce over chicken and sprinkle with coriander.
Serve chicken with rice. Make rice, add raisins, butter, toasted almonds and chopped parsley.
* 1 tablespoon olive oil
* 1 whole boneless chicken breast with skin and wings attached (about 1 1/2 pounds; available by request from butcher), halved
* 1 small onion, sliced thin
* 3/4 teaspoon ground cumin
* 1/4 teaspoon paprika
* 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
* 2 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest
* 1 1/2 teaspoons all-purpose flour
* 1 1/2 cups chicken broth
* 1/3 cup green olives, pitted and sliced thin
* 1 tablespoon honey
* 1/2 cup drained and rinsed canned chick peas
* 2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander sprigs (wash and dry before chopping)
* Accompaniment:Rice with Almonds and Raisins
Preparation
In a 3-quart heavy saucepan heat oil over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking. Pat chicken dry and season with salt and pepper. Cook chicken, skin side down, until skin is deep golden brown. Transfer chicken to a plate and reduce heat to moderate. Add onion to pan and cook, stirring, until softened. Add cumin, paprika, cinnamon, zest, and flour and cook, stirring, 1 minute. Stir in broth, olives and honey.
Return chicken to pan and simmer, uncovered, 8 minutes. Transfer chicken to 2 plates. Add chick peas to sauce. Simmer sauce 3 minutes and season with salt and pepper. Pour sauce over chicken and sprinkle with coriander.
Serve chicken with rice. Make rice, add raisins, butter, toasted almonds and chopped parsley.
Hummus
Paula Wolfert’s Hummus
1 1/2 cups dried chickpeas, soaked overnight
1 teaspoon kosher salt, divided
3 garlic cloves, peeled
3/4 cup sesame seed paste
1/2 cup fresh lemon juice, and more to taste
Cayenne, hot Hungarian paprika or za’atar
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
2 teaspoons olive oil
1. Rinse the soaked chickpeas well and drain them before putting them in a saucepan and covering them with plenty of fresh water. Bring to a boil; skim, add one-half teaspoon salt, cover and cook over medium heat, about 1 1/2 hours, until the chickpeas are very soft (you might need to add more water).
2. Meanwhile, crush the garlic and one-half teaspoon salt in a mortar until pureed. Transfer the puree to the work bowl of a food processor, add the sesame seed paste and lemon juice and process until white and contracted. Add one-half cup water and process until completely smooth.
3. Drain the chickpeas, reserving their cooking liquid. Add the chickpeas to the sesame paste mixture and process until well-blended. For a smoother texture, press the mixture through the fine blade of a food mill. Thin to desired consistency with reserved chickpea liquid. Adjust the seasoning with salt and lemon juice. The hummus can be kept in an airtight container in the fridge for up to a week.) Serve, sprinkled with paprika (or za’atar) and parsley and drizzled with oil.
Makes 4 cups
1 1/2 cups dried chickpeas, soaked overnight
1 teaspoon kosher salt, divided
3 garlic cloves, peeled
3/4 cup sesame seed paste
1/2 cup fresh lemon juice, and more to taste
Cayenne, hot Hungarian paprika or za’atar
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
2 teaspoons olive oil
1. Rinse the soaked chickpeas well and drain them before putting them in a saucepan and covering them with plenty of fresh water. Bring to a boil; skim, add one-half teaspoon salt, cover and cook over medium heat, about 1 1/2 hours, until the chickpeas are very soft (you might need to add more water).
2. Meanwhile, crush the garlic and one-half teaspoon salt in a mortar until pureed. Transfer the puree to the work bowl of a food processor, add the sesame seed paste and lemon juice and process until white and contracted. Add one-half cup water and process until completely smooth.
3. Drain the chickpeas, reserving their cooking liquid. Add the chickpeas to the sesame paste mixture and process until well-blended. For a smoother texture, press the mixture through the fine blade of a food mill. Thin to desired consistency with reserved chickpea liquid. Adjust the seasoning with salt and lemon juice. The hummus can be kept in an airtight container in the fridge for up to a week.) Serve, sprinkled with paprika (or za’atar) and parsley and drizzled with oil.
Makes 4 cups
Saturday, March 07, 2009
Pita bread
from smitten kitchen
Adapted from The Bread Bible
3 cups plus a scant 1/4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour (16 oz./454 grams)
2 teaspoons salt (1/2 oz./13.2 grams)
2 teaspoons instant yeast (6.4 grams)
2 tablespoons olive oil (1 oz./27 grams)
1 1/4 cups water, at room temperature (10.4 oz./295 grams)
1. About 1 1/2 hours before shaping, or for best flavor development, 8 hours to 3 days ahead, mix the dough.
Mixer method: In the bowl of a stand mixer, combine all the ingredients. With the paddle attachment, mix on low speed (#2 if using a KitchenAid) just until all the flour is moistened, about 20 seconds. Change to the dough hook, raise the speed to medium (#4 KitchenAid), and knead for 10 minutes. The dough should clean the bowl and be very soft and smooth and just a little sticky to the touch. Add a little flour or water if necessary. (the dough will weigh about 27.75 oz./793 grams.)
Hand method: In a large bowl, combine all the ingredients except for a scant 1/4 cup of the flour. With a wooden spoon or your hand, mix until all the flour is moistened. Knead the dough in the bowl until it comes together.
Sprinkle a little of the reserved flour onto the counter and scrape the dough onto it. Knead the dough for 5 minutes, adding as little of the reserved flour as possible. Use a bench scraper to scrape the dough and gather it together as you knead it. At this point it will be very sticky. Cover it with the inverted bowl and allow it to rest for 5 to 20 minutes. (This rest will make the dough less sticky and easier to work with.)
Knead the dough for another 5 to 10 minutes or until it is soft and smooth and just a little sticky to the touch. Add a little flour or water if necessary. (The dough will weigh about 27.75 oz./793 grams.)
2. Let the dough rise: Using an oiled spatula or dough scraper, scrape the dough into a 2-quart or larger dough-rising container or bowl, lightly greased with cooking spray or oil. Press the dough down and lightly spray or oil the top of it. Cover the container with a lid or plastic wrap. With a piece of tape, mark the side of the container at approximately where double the height of the dough would be. Refrigerate the dough overnight (or up to 3 days), checking every hour for the first 4 hours and pressing it down if it starts to rise.
3. Preheat the oven: Preheat the oven to 475°F one hour before baking. Have an oven shelf at the lowest level and place a baking stone, cast-iron skillet, or baking sheet on it before preheating.
4. Shape the dough: Cut the dough into 8 or 12 pieces. Work with one piece at a time, keeping the rest covered with a damp cloth. On a lightly floured counter, with lightly floured hands, shape each piece into a ball and then flatten it into a disk. Cover the dough with oiled plastic and allow it to rest for 20 minutes at room temperature.
Roll each disk into a circle a little under 1/4 inch thick. Allow them to rest, uncovered, for 10 minutes before baking.
5. Bake the pita: Quickly place 1 piece of dough directly on the stone or in the skillet or on the baking sheet, and bake for 3 minutes. The pita should be completely puffed but not beginning to brown. The dough will not puff well if it is not moist enough. See how the pita puffs, then, if necessary, spray and knead each remaining piece with water until the dough is soft and moist; allow to rest again and reroll as before.* (However, those that do not puff well are still delicious to eat.)
* After my first pita didn’t puff well, and I realized I was too lazy to spritz and reroll and rise each remaining pita, I instead spritzed each rolled-out pita with water two or three minutes before baking it. It worked magically — all of the remaining pitas puffed perfectly. Try this method first if yours don’t puff, if it doesn’t work to you, revert to Beranbaum’s suggestion of kneading the extra moisture in.
Proceed with the remaining dough, baking 3 or 4 pieces at a time if using a stone or baking sheet. using a pancake turner, transfer the pita breads to a clean towel, to stay soft and warm. Allow the oven to reheat for 5 minutes between batches. The pitas can be reheated for about 30 seconds in a hot oven before serving.
To cook the pitas on the stove top: Preheat a griddle or cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Lightly grease the surface and cook the pitas one at a time. Cook for about 20 seconds, then turn the dough and continue cooking for 1 minute or until big bubbles appear. Turn the dough again and cook until the dough balloons. If the dough begins to brown, lower the heat. The entire cooking process for each pita should be about 3 minutes.
Whole wheat variation: For a whole wheat version, use half whole wheat and half white flour. If using regular whole wheat flour, for best results, grind it very fine or process it in a food processor for 5 minutes to break the bran into smaller particles. Finely ground 100% whole wheat flour (atta), available in Middle Eastern food markets, is the finest grind available. Or, for a milder but wheatier flavor and golden color, try 100% white whole wheat flour. You will need to add 1/4 cup more water, for a total of 1 1/2 cups (12.4 oz./354 grams).
Adapted from The Bread Bible
3 cups plus a scant 1/4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour (16 oz./454 grams)
2 teaspoons salt (1/2 oz./13.2 grams)
2 teaspoons instant yeast (6.4 grams)
2 tablespoons olive oil (1 oz./27 grams)
1 1/4 cups water, at room temperature (10.4 oz./295 grams)
1. About 1 1/2 hours before shaping, or for best flavor development, 8 hours to 3 days ahead, mix the dough.
Mixer method: In the bowl of a stand mixer, combine all the ingredients. With the paddle attachment, mix on low speed (#2 if using a KitchenAid) just until all the flour is moistened, about 20 seconds. Change to the dough hook, raise the speed to medium (#4 KitchenAid), and knead for 10 minutes. The dough should clean the bowl and be very soft and smooth and just a little sticky to the touch. Add a little flour or water if necessary. (the dough will weigh about 27.75 oz./793 grams.)
Hand method: In a large bowl, combine all the ingredients except for a scant 1/4 cup of the flour. With a wooden spoon or your hand, mix until all the flour is moistened. Knead the dough in the bowl until it comes together.
Sprinkle a little of the reserved flour onto the counter and scrape the dough onto it. Knead the dough for 5 minutes, adding as little of the reserved flour as possible. Use a bench scraper to scrape the dough and gather it together as you knead it. At this point it will be very sticky. Cover it with the inverted bowl and allow it to rest for 5 to 20 minutes. (This rest will make the dough less sticky and easier to work with.)
Knead the dough for another 5 to 10 minutes or until it is soft and smooth and just a little sticky to the touch. Add a little flour or water if necessary. (The dough will weigh about 27.75 oz./793 grams.)
2. Let the dough rise: Using an oiled spatula or dough scraper, scrape the dough into a 2-quart or larger dough-rising container or bowl, lightly greased with cooking spray or oil. Press the dough down and lightly spray or oil the top of it. Cover the container with a lid or plastic wrap. With a piece of tape, mark the side of the container at approximately where double the height of the dough would be. Refrigerate the dough overnight (or up to 3 days), checking every hour for the first 4 hours and pressing it down if it starts to rise.
3. Preheat the oven: Preheat the oven to 475°F one hour before baking. Have an oven shelf at the lowest level and place a baking stone, cast-iron skillet, or baking sheet on it before preheating.
4. Shape the dough: Cut the dough into 8 or 12 pieces. Work with one piece at a time, keeping the rest covered with a damp cloth. On a lightly floured counter, with lightly floured hands, shape each piece into a ball and then flatten it into a disk. Cover the dough with oiled plastic and allow it to rest for 20 minutes at room temperature.
Roll each disk into a circle a little under 1/4 inch thick. Allow them to rest, uncovered, for 10 minutes before baking.
5. Bake the pita: Quickly place 1 piece of dough directly on the stone or in the skillet or on the baking sheet, and bake for 3 minutes. The pita should be completely puffed but not beginning to brown. The dough will not puff well if it is not moist enough. See how the pita puffs, then, if necessary, spray and knead each remaining piece with water until the dough is soft and moist; allow to rest again and reroll as before.* (However, those that do not puff well are still delicious to eat.)
* After my first pita didn’t puff well, and I realized I was too lazy to spritz and reroll and rise each remaining pita, I instead spritzed each rolled-out pita with water two or three minutes before baking it. It worked magically — all of the remaining pitas puffed perfectly. Try this method first if yours don’t puff, if it doesn’t work to you, revert to Beranbaum’s suggestion of kneading the extra moisture in.
Proceed with the remaining dough, baking 3 or 4 pieces at a time if using a stone or baking sheet. using a pancake turner, transfer the pita breads to a clean towel, to stay soft and warm. Allow the oven to reheat for 5 minutes between batches. The pitas can be reheated for about 30 seconds in a hot oven before serving.
To cook the pitas on the stove top: Preheat a griddle or cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Lightly grease the surface and cook the pitas one at a time. Cook for about 20 seconds, then turn the dough and continue cooking for 1 minute or until big bubbles appear. Turn the dough again and cook until the dough balloons. If the dough begins to brown, lower the heat. The entire cooking process for each pita should be about 3 minutes.
Whole wheat variation: For a whole wheat version, use half whole wheat and half white flour. If using regular whole wheat flour, for best results, grind it very fine or process it in a food processor for 5 minutes to break the bran into smaller particles. Finely ground 100% whole wheat flour (atta), available in Middle Eastern food markets, is the finest grind available. Or, for a milder but wheatier flavor and golden color, try 100% white whole wheat flour. You will need to add 1/4 cup more water, for a total of 1 1/2 cups (12.4 oz./354 grams).
Sweet Potato Pound Cake
Adapted from Southern Cakes, by Nancie McDermott. from orangette, the blog.
I was introduced to this cake by my friend Shari, who co-curates the inspiring site this joy+ride.
This cake is perfect for late winter: moist, fragrant, warmly spiced. You can roast, peel, and mash the sweet potatoes ahead of time, and from there, the cake comes together fairly quickly and easily. The recipe comes with an optional buttermilk glaze, which I used and liked very much, but you could go either way. sider that a warning.
For the cake:
3 ¼ cups all-purpose flour
2 tsp. baking powder
½ tsp. baking soda
½ tsp. freshly ground nutmeg
½ tsp. salt
½ cup milk (low-fat is okay)
1 tsp. vanilla extract
8 oz. (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 cup sugar
1 cup light brown sugar
4 large eggs
2 cups mashed cooked sweet potatoes
For the buttermilk glaze (optional):
½ cup buttermilk
½ cup sugar
4 Tbsp. (½ stick) unsalted butter, cubed
1 ½ tsp. cornstarch or flour
¼ tsp. baking soda
1 tsp. vanilla extract
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease and flour a 10-inch tube or Bundt pan. (If your pan is nonstick, you can get away with just some cooking spray; no need to flour.)
In a medium bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, baking soda, nutmeg, and salt. Whisk well. In a small bowl or measuring cup, combine the milk and vanilla.
In a large bowl, beat the butter, sugar, and light brown sugar until light and fluffy, stopping once or twice to scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. Add the sweet potatoes, and mix until the batter is combined. (The batter may look terrible at this point: curdled, weird, terrible. Don’t worry.) With the mixer on low speed, add half of the flour mixture. Beat to just incorporate. Then add half of the milk mixture, and continue to beat on low until well blended. Add the remaining flour, followed by the remaining milk, and beat on low until the batter is thick and smooth.
Scrape the batter into the prepared pan, and bake for 60 to 75 minutes, or until the cake springs back when pressed lightly and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool the cake in the pan on a wire rack for 20 minutes. Run a thin knife around the edge to loosen the cake, and then carefully invert it onto the rack.
Meanwhile, make the glaze, if using. In a medium saucepan, combine the buttermilk, sugar, butter, cornstarch, and baking soda. Place it over medium heat, and bring it just to a gentle boil. Immediately remove it from the heat, stir well, and set it aside to cool to room temperature. Add the vanilla, and stir well.
Set the wire rack - with the cake atop it - over a rimmed sheet pan. Spoon the glaze through a fine-mesh sieve over the warm cake. (I recommend using a sieve because my batch of glaze had some little gelatinous bits of clumped cornstarch in it.)
Cool completely before servin
I was introduced to this cake by my friend Shari, who co-curates the inspiring site this joy+ride.
This cake is perfect for late winter: moist, fragrant, warmly spiced. You can roast, peel, and mash the sweet potatoes ahead of time, and from there, the cake comes together fairly quickly and easily. The recipe comes with an optional buttermilk glaze, which I used and liked very much, but you could go either way. sider that a warning.
For the cake:
3 ¼ cups all-purpose flour
2 tsp. baking powder
½ tsp. baking soda
½ tsp. freshly ground nutmeg
½ tsp. salt
½ cup milk (low-fat is okay)
1 tsp. vanilla extract
8 oz. (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 cup sugar
1 cup light brown sugar
4 large eggs
2 cups mashed cooked sweet potatoes
For the buttermilk glaze (optional):
½ cup buttermilk
½ cup sugar
4 Tbsp. (½ stick) unsalted butter, cubed
1 ½ tsp. cornstarch or flour
¼ tsp. baking soda
1 tsp. vanilla extract
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease and flour a 10-inch tube or Bundt pan. (If your pan is nonstick, you can get away with just some cooking spray; no need to flour.)
In a medium bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, baking soda, nutmeg, and salt. Whisk well. In a small bowl or measuring cup, combine the milk and vanilla.
In a large bowl, beat the butter, sugar, and light brown sugar until light and fluffy, stopping once or twice to scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. Add the sweet potatoes, and mix until the batter is combined. (The batter may look terrible at this point: curdled, weird, terrible. Don’t worry.) With the mixer on low speed, add half of the flour mixture. Beat to just incorporate. Then add half of the milk mixture, and continue to beat on low until well blended. Add the remaining flour, followed by the remaining milk, and beat on low until the batter is thick and smooth.
Scrape the batter into the prepared pan, and bake for 60 to 75 minutes, or until the cake springs back when pressed lightly and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool the cake in the pan on a wire rack for 20 minutes. Run a thin knife around the edge to loosen the cake, and then carefully invert it onto the rack.
Meanwhile, make the glaze, if using. In a medium saucepan, combine the buttermilk, sugar, butter, cornstarch, and baking soda. Place it over medium heat, and bring it just to a gentle boil. Immediately remove it from the heat, stir well, and set it aside to cool to room temperature. Add the vanilla, and stir well.
Set the wire rack - with the cake atop it - over a rimmed sheet pan. Spoon the glaze through a fine-mesh sieve over the warm cake. (I recommend using a sieve because my batch of glaze had some little gelatinous bits of clumped cornstarch in it.)
Cool completely before servin
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